As the kimono, the traditional form of Japanese dress, had no pockets, the Japanese men suspended small items they needed to take with them, such as tobacco pouches, purses, pipes and writing implements on a silk cord from their sash, and stop the cord slipping, it was fed through a toggle - a netsuke.
Originally the toggle was made from found objects such as roots or shells, which were selected for their aesthetic appeal, but over time the toggle itself developed as an art form. Many fine carvers devoted themselves to netsuke, but the demand was so great, that their manufacture
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was taken up by other craft persons such as lacquerers, metal artists and potters.
While ivory is the most commonly used material, netsuke were also made from wood, bone, lacquer, metal and other materials.
The custom of wearing netsuke flourished in Japan for more than three centuries - from around 1600 to the mid 19th century, but the golden age of the netsuke is considered to be from 1800 to 1850. The custom developed in the 16th century when tobacco smoking using a pipe was introduced by the Portuguese. This required the smoker to carry his smoking accoutrements and were a major factor in the wide use adaption of the netsuke.
Innumerable designs were produced, with ivory the most-used material, but also in wood, stone, amber, lacquer
During this period, Japan was a closed society with no foreign trade or influence, but this was changed by the visits of Commodore Matthew Perry in the 1850s. With the opening up of Japan to the west, smoking preferences changed from the pipe to the cigarette, and dress habits changed from traditional Japanese garments to western dress, leading the decline in use of the netsuke.
The western world discovered the artistry of the netsuke in the late 19th century and many great collections are formed. As awareness of the netsuke increased, the demand from tourists developed, and to satisfy the market, many netsuke style items were mass produced. They were produced in all types of materials including plastic. If produced by a mould often the mould marks can be seen. More elaborate copies may be hand carved, and with a fake copy of the signature an original master netsuke maker.
Factors that contribute to the value of a netsuke are authenticity, the skill of the artisan, the condition, and if signed, the name of the artist. The most difficult of these to determine is authenticity, as ageing can be faked, and it takes a long period of study of the netsuke to become competent in this area.
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Ivory is a hard, white material obtained from the tusks of elephants, walruses, narwhals, and other animals. It has been prized for centuries for its beauty, durability, and rarity, and has been used extensively in decorative arts in Western and Oriental cultures from the 18th to the 20th centuries.
In Western cultures during the 18th to 20th centuries, ivory continued to be a popular material for creating decorative objects. A few examples of ivory objects from Western cultures during this time period include:
• toiletry necessaire: A set of toiletry items made of ivory, late 19th century.
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;ivory chess set: A set of intricately carved ivory chess pieces, created in the 18th century.
• ivory cane: A walking cane with an ivory handle, often carved with intricate designs or figurines.
In Oriental cultures, ivory continued to be used for decorative arts during the 18th to 20th centuries. Just a few examples of ivory objects from Oriental cultures during this time period include:
• Japanese okimono: A small ivory figurine depicting scenes from everyday life in Japan.
• Chinese ivory puzzle ball: A series of carved, nested spheres made of ivory, often featuring intricate carvings and designs.
• Cantonese ivory chess set: A set of intricately carved ivory chess pieces made in the 19th century in Canton, China.
It is important to note that the use of ivory in decorative arts has been controversial due to the impact on elephant populations. Many countries have implemented restrictions on the trade of ivory in order to protect endangered elephant populations. For example, in the United States, it is illegal to import, export, buy, or sell elephant ivory with limited exceptions for antiques and certain musical instruments. The European Union has also banned the trade in ivory within its member states, with exceptions for some antique items. The restrictions on the trade of ivory aim to protect endangered elephant populations and prevent illegal poaching and trafficking of ivory.
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