As the kimono, the traditional form of Japanese dress, had no pockets, the Japanese men suspended small items they needed to take with them, such as tobacco pouches, purses, pipes and writing implements on a silk cord from their sash, and stop the cord slipping, it was fed through a toggle - a netsuke.
Originally the toggle was made from found objects such as roots or shells, which were selected for their aesthetic appeal, but over time the toggle itself developed as an art form. Many fine carvers devoted themselves to netsuke, but the demand was so great, that their manufacture was taken up by other craft persons such as lacquerers, metal artists and potters.
While ivory is the most commonly used material, netsuke were also made from wood, bone, lacquer, metal and other materials.
The custom of wearing netsuke flourished in Japan for more than three centuries - from around 1600
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to the mid 19th century, but the golden age of the netsuke is considered to be from 1800 to 1850. The custom developed in the 16th century when tobacco smoking using a pipe was introduced by the Portuguese. This required the smoker to carry his smoking accoutrements and were a major factor in the wide use adaption of the netsuke.
Innumerable designs were produced, with ivory the most-used material, but also in wood, stone, amber, lacquer
During this period, Japan was a closed society with no foreign trade or influence, but this was changed by the visits of Commodore Matthew Perry in the 1850s. With the opening up of Japan to the west, smoking preferences changed from the pipe to the cigarette, and dress habits changed from traditional Japanese garments to western dress, leading the decline in use of the netsuke.
The western world discovered the artistry of the netsuke in the late 19th century and many great collections are formed. As awareness of the netsuke increased, the demand from tourists developed, and to satisfy the market, many netsuke style items were mass produced. They were produced in all types of materials including plastic. If produced by a mould often the mould marks can be seen. More elaborate copies may be hand carved, and with a fake copy of the signature an original master netsuke maker.
Factors that contribute to the value of a netsuke are authenticity, the skill of the artisan, the condition, and if signed, the name of the artist. The most difficult of these to determine is authenticity, as ageing can be faked, and it takes a long period of study of the netsuke to become competent in this area.
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