A Chinese twelve symbol Emperor's semi-formal court robe, Jifu, Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), circa 1850, This robe made for the Emperor, is beautifully decorated with the twelve symbols of Imperial authority, arranged discreetly among a number of other symbolic and auspicious motifs. On the shoulders of the robe are the sun and the moon, on the front panel above the dragon is a constellation, below that is the fu symbol and the axe head, representing the power to judge and punish respectively, further down is the seaweed, to represent purity, and a pair of sacrificial cups, for filial piety. On the back above the dragon is a motif of mountains, and also the entwined dragons and golden pheasant for adaptability and literary refinement, above a flame motif for wisdom, and the millet symbol to represent the wearer of the garment's ability to feed his people. The use of white thread lifts the embroidered billowing waves and creates an illusion of life and movement. The robe shines with the lustre of the finest silken threads. This robe is lined with imperial yellow silk, mounted in a perspex case measuring 230 cm wide, 16 cm deep, 183 cm high. Provenance: Purchased Linda Wrigglesworth, London, Irving Galleries, 1991, 4045 catalogue no. 137, Exhibitions, Art Gallery of New South Wales, celestial silks, Chinese religious court Textiles, 31 August - 24, October, 2004, illus. Catalogue no. 27, Literature, This robe has appeared in several journal articles. Other Notes: blue robes were worn by the emperor at events associated with heaven. The emperor, possibly Huangdi would have worn this robe during the day of the ceremony taking place at the temple of heaven. Here, the emperor would pray for rains and an excellent harvest. For centuries, the 'Twelve symbols' were associated with the principal annual sacrifices offered by the emperor on behalf of the people at the great Imperial alters. References: Rutherford, J., and Menzies, J., celestial silks: Chinese religious and court Textiles, Art Gallery of New South Wales, 31 July - 24 October, 2004, Steele, V. And Major, J. S., China Chic - East meets West, Yale University press, London, 1999, Vollmer, J. E., Ruling from the dragon throne: costume of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), ten Speed press, Berkeley, 2002, Cammann, S., China's dragon robes, the Ronald press Company, New York, 1952, G. Dickinson and L. Wrigglesworth, Imperial wardrobe, Berkeley, rev. Ed., 2000
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- Imperial Yellow - Imperial yellow, also called "Chinese Yellow" and "Royal Yellow" is an auspicious colour in Chinese culture.
It was the colour of Imperial China and the symbolic colour of of the five legendary emperors of ancient China. The colour was used to decorate royal palaces and used in the clothing of the emperors.
- Ming Dynasty - The Ming Dynasty was a ruling dynasty of China from 1368 to 1644. It succeeded the Yuan Dynasty and preceded the Qing Dynasty. The Ming Dynasty was established by Zhu Yuanzhang, a former Buddhist monk who became a rebel leader and eventually overthrew the Mongol Yuan Dynasty. During the Ming Dynasty, China experienced a period of relative stability and prosperity. The government was centralized and bureaucratic, with the emperor at the top of the hierarchy. The Ming Dynasty is known for its cultural achievements, including the development of porcelain, the invention of movable type printing, and the construction of the Great Wall of China.
- Qing Dynasty - The Qing Dynasty was the last imperial dynasty of China, ruling from 1644 to 1912. It was established by the Manchu people, who originated from the northeastern region of China. The Qing Dynasty was preceded by the Ming Dynasty and followed by the Republic of China.
- Imperial Yellow - Imperial yellow, also known as "yangqing" in Chinese, is a bright, intense shade of yellow that was historically reserved for the exclusive use of the Chinese imperial family. It was considered the most prestigious and luxurious of all colours, and was used to adorn a wide variety of imperial goods, including porcelain.
Chinese porcelain decorated with imperial yellow was highly prized, and was often used to create exquisite pieces of imperial tableware, such as plates, bowls, and cups. The use of imperial yellow on porcelain was a symbol of the emperor's power and authority and was intended to impress and intimidate visitors to the imperial court.
The process of creating imperial yellow porcelain involved a highly complex and labour-intensive process, which was kept secret by the imperial court. The exact recipe for the yellow glaze used on imperial porcelain is still unknown, although it is thought to have been a combination of lead, tin, and antimony, with the addition of a small amount of iron oxide to achieve the distinctive colour.
- Circa - A Latin term meaning 'about', often used in the antique trade to give an approximate date for the piece, usually considered to be five years on either side of the circa year. Thus, circa 1900 means the piece was made about 1900, probably between 1895 and 1905. The expression is sometimes abbreviated to c.1900.
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Oriental textiles & costume, Chinese