18ct white gold and diamond 'Inde Mysterieuse' ring, Cartier, the 13 mm wide band is modelled as three asymmetrical lines of repeating open work foliate motifs embellished with collet and pave-set brilliant-cut diamonds together weighing approximately 3.85 carats, size 53 (N), signed Cartier, assay and maker's marks, numbered QZ6264.
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- Foliate - Decorated with leaves or leaf-like forms.
- Openwork in Jewellery - Openwork, also known as pierced work, is a decorative technique used in jewellery making that involves removing or cutting out sections of metal from a piece of jewellery to create a pattern or design. This technique can be used in a wide range of jewellery styles, including necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and rings.
Openwork jewellery can be made using a variety of different techniques, including hand carving, sawing, and laser cutting. The design can be simple or complex, and can feature a range of different shapes and motifs, from delicate floral patterns to bold geometric designs.
One of the advantages of openwork jewellery is that it can add visual interest and depth to a piece without adding a lot of weight or bulk. This can be particularly appealing in larger pieces, such as necklaces and bracelets, where heavy materials can be uncomfortable to wear.
- Collet Setting - A collet setting in jewellery is a type of setting that is used to hold a gemstone or other decorative element securely in place. The collet is a ring of metal that surrounds the stone and holds it in place. The collet is typically made of the same metal as the rest of the piece and is often used in vintage or antique jewellery.
In a collet setting, the gemstone is placed into a small metal ring, also known as a collet. The metal ring is then bent or folded over the edges of the gemstone to hold it securely in place. The collet is then attached to the rest of the piece of jewellery, such as a ring or pendant.
One of the benefits of a collet setting is that it allows the maximum amount of light to enter the stone, which can enhance its brilliance and sparkle. It also allows the stone to be seen from the sides, which makes it a popular choice for showcasing particularly beautiful or unique stones.
The collet setting is a classic and elegant setting and it is often found in antique jewellery, particularly from the Victorian and Edwardian periods.
- Assay / Assayed - Assaying is the testing of a metal, most commonly silver and gold to determine its ingredients and quality. In Britain, once an item of silver or gold has been assayed, a mark is stamped on it, certifying its purity. Known as hallmark, it derives its name from the Guild Hall of the Goldsmiths' Company, who recieved its Charter in 1327 giving it the power to assay and mark articles of gold and silver.
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