18ct gold, enamel, ruby, sapphire and emerald brooch, mid 20th…
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18ct gold, enamel, ruby, sapphire and emerald brooch, mid 20th century. Designed as a peacock, the tail plumage set with circular-cut rubies, emeralds and sapphires, together weighing approximately 2.08, 0.55 and 0.84 carats respectively, the breast and wings decorated with green, red and vari-coloured guilloche enamel feathers, approximately 38 x 31 mm.

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  • Emeralds - Emeralds have been used in jewellery making for thousands of years, and are prized for their deep green colour, which is caused by the presence of chromium and vanadium in the mineral beryl. Because of their rare colour, emeralds are often more valuable than diamonds of a similar size and quality. In jewellery making, emeralds are typically cut into round or oval shapes to maximize their color and clarity. They are often set in gold or platinum and used as the centrepiece of a piece of jewellery, such as a ring or necklace. They can also be used in combination with other gems, such as diamonds, to create intricate and beautiful designs.
  • Guilloche - A form of classical decoration consisting of a repeating ornament of interlacing curved bands, sometimes forming circles, and further decorated with rosettes or other flower forms.

    The name is derived from the inventor, French engineer Guillot, who invented a mechanical method of inscribing fine repeating patterns on to metallic surfaces.

    On enamelled items with guilloche decoration, the surface is firstly engraved with the repeating pattern, and then covered with several layers of enamel, each of which is fired.

    Where the item has not been enamelled the form of decoration is usually called "engine turned".

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