A fine Josiah Emery gold and enamel quarter repeating cylinder escapement watch, the thin gilt fullplate movement with fusee, pierced and engraved balance cock with diamond endstone. Cylinder escapement. Plain round columns, with fitted gilt dustcap ring to cover mechanism between the two fullplates. Repeating mechanism at press of stem, the hammer tapping the hours and quarters on the dustcap. The fullplate signed Josiah Emery / Charing cross London, with serial number 687. The hinged single case with casemaker initials Mr and rubbed hallmarks, possibly indicating London 1775. The face with slim repeating pattern gold bezel before an enamel dial, Roman chapters and Arabic minutes for the hours, gold hands. The case decorated to the rear with a central Royal Blue oval guilloche cartouche with radiating finely engine turned and enameled rings in green and blue, within which sits engraved gold foliate swags, the outer edge with scrollwork converging at the three corners, with repeating white enamel dot pattern between. London, circa 1770-1780. Diameter: 38 mm. Provenance: The collection of Dr Trevor Hyde, Sydney, Literature: for more information on Emery's work and life, see Jonathan Betts, 'Josiah Emery, Watchmaker of Charing Cross', Antiquarian Horology, (five parts), Vol.22, No.5, March 1996-97. Other Notes: Josiah Emery was a Swiss born watchmaker who conducted business from before 1760, outside the city of London at 33 Cockspur Street in Charing cross, London. His skill and ability was recognised by him being made an Honorary Freeman of the Clockmaker's Company in 1781. He was the first to use the lever escapement following the invention of it by Mudge.
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- Engine Turned - Engine turning is a decorative technique used on metal surfaces to create intricate curving or geometric pattern. The process involves cutting a series of lines into the surface of the metal using a rose engine or decoration lathe which rotates the metal as it cuts, allowing the operator to create a repeating pattern that covers the entire surface. The resulting surface has a shimmering, reflective quality that is often described as "engine turned." Where an engine turned item has been enamelled, the term used to describe the decoration is usually guilloche.
Engine turning was originally developed to decorate metal objects such as firearms, scientific instruments, and other metal objects that required precise and elegant design.
- Foliate - Decorated with leaves or leaf-like forms.
- Fusee - The fusee movement was used in clocks and pocket watches from the mid 17th century. The fusee is a cone shaped drum within the works that is linked to the barrel of the spring, usually by a length of chain.
As the mainspring loses its tension over time, the cone shaped barrel compensates for this by increasing the tension, by pulling the mainspring tighter, thus ensuring the time remains constant.
Use of the fusee in clocks was superseded by the "going barrel" in the mid 19th century and for pocket watches at the beginning of the 19th century.
The fusee continued to be used in marine chronometers until the 1970s.
- Guilloche - A form of classical decoration consisting of a repeating ornament of interlacing curved bands, sometimes forming circles, and further decorated with rosettes or other flower forms.
The name is derived from the inventor, French engineer Guillot, who invented a mechanical method of inscribing fine repeating patterns on to metallic surfaces.
On enamelled items with guilloche decoration, the surface is firstly engraved with the repeating pattern, and then covered with several layers of enamel, each of which is fired.
Where the item has not been enamelled the form of decoration is usually called "engine turned".
- Bezel - On a clock or watch, the bezel is the metal frame into which the watch or clock glass is fitted. In clocks, the bezel may include a hinge and a flange, in effect a door to the face of the clock. In jewellery the bezel is a band of metal with a projecting lip that holds the gemstone in its setting.
- Floral Swag / Garland / Festoon - Floral swags are a decorative motif often used in the ornamentation of various objects, such as silverware, glassware, and furniture. The term "swag" refers to a garland or wreath of flowers, foliage, or other decorative elements, which is usually arranged in a loop or curve.
Floral swags can be found in a variety of decorative styles, from ornate Baroque and Rococo designs to more naturalistic Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. They are often used to add a touch of elegance, refinement, or whimsy to an object, and can be seen on a range of items from chandeliers and candlesticks to picture frames and tea sets.
In the decoration of silver objects, floral swags are often used to accentuate the curves and lines of the piece, and to add visual interest to the surface. Similarly, on glass objects, floral swags may be used to frame or highlight a particular area of the object, or to add a touch of color and delicacy.
On furniture, floral swags can be found on a variety of pieces, from cabinets and armoires to chairs and sofas. They are often used to enhance the lines and curves of the furniture, and can be used to create a sense of movement and flow in the design.
Overall, floral swags are a versatile decorative element that can be adapted to a range of styles and applications, and have been used in the decoration of various objects throughout history.
- Cartouche - An ornamental panel in the form of of a shield, oval or rectangular scroll with curling edges. It may be carved into the back of a chair or the top of a sideboard, or present on a piece of silver or jewellery, and contain the initials of the original owner, heraldic symbols, or some other inscription, such as the details of a presentation.
In ceramics the term defines the central area of a vase or similar with a decorative border in one of the shapes above, into which a decorative scene or figures have been painted.
- Movement - The technical name for the workings of a clock or watch, and does not include the dial or case.
- Circa - A Latin term meaning 'about', often used in the antique trade to give an approximate date for the piece, usually considered to be five years on either side of the circa year. Thus, circa 1900 means the piece was made about 1900, probably between 1895 and 1905. The expression is sometimes abbreviated to c.1900.
- Lever Escapement - A lever escapement is a type of escapement mechanism used in mechanical clocks and watches to regulate the timekeeping of the movement. It was invented by British clockmaker Thomas Mudge in the 18th century and is now widely used in modern mechanical timepieces.
The lever escapement consists of three main parts: the escape wheel, the pallet fork, and the lever. The escape wheel is a wheel with teeth that is driven by the clock or watch's main spring or weight. The pallet fork is a two-pronged component that is positioned so that it can engage with the teeth of the escape wheel, and the lever is a small, L-shaped component that is attached to the pallet fork.
When the escape wheel turns, one of its teeth pushes against one of the pallet fork's prongs, causing the fork to pivot. As the pallet fork pivots, it releases the tooth and engages with the next tooth on the opposite side of the escape wheel. At the same time, the lever, which is connected to the pallet fork, rocks back and forth, allowing the escape wheel to turn at a regulated rate.
The lever escapement is prized for its accuracy and reliability and is commonly used in high-end mechanical watches. It allows for precise timekeeping by ensuring that the movement of the watch or clock is regulated and consistent, and its compact size makes it an ideal choice for use in small, portable timepieces.
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