Bulgari's Sapphire Flower Bracelet with 77.46 Carats of Gems
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A spectacular 18ct gold, fancy coloured sapphire, emerald and diamond 'Sapphire Flower' bracelet, Bulgari, circa 2004, modelled as a wide strap comprising of lines of flower heads each centring a brilliant-cut diamond stamen within a surround of petals claw-set with variously coloured pear-shaped sapphires framed by symmetrical openwork annular motifs, pave-set with brilliant-cut diamonds decorated at intervals with articulated claw-set diamonds and circular-cut emeralds, completed by a similarly set box clasp, the sapphires, emeralds and diamonds together stated to weigh 77.46 carats, 3.03 carats, and 7.36 carats respectively, length approximately 185 mm, signed Bulgari. Accompanied by: a Bulgari Gemmological Center gem report numbered B390 - 1858, dated 16 November 2004. A Bulgari valuation certificate, dated 21 March 2005. Literature, Amanda Triossi and Daniela Mascetti, Bulgari, Thames and Hudson, London, 2007, pp. 127 (illustrated, another example). Inspired by designs from the mid-century, in 2004 Bulgari launched the sapphire flower collection. The traditional jewels colour palette as represented by the colours of emerald, ruby and sapphire were replaced by an extraordinary selection of fancy coloured sapphires in vibrant hues including mauve, raspberry red, lime green, violet and sky blue. Representing a new direction for Bulgari, the innovative 'High jewellery designs' are characterised by flexible openwork delicate motifs that give the floral themed jewels a two-dimensional effect when worn on the body.
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- Circa - A Latin term meaning 'about', often used in the antique trade to give an approximate date for the piece, usually considered to be five years on either side of the circa year. Thus, circa 1900 means the piece was made about 1900, probably between 1895 and 1905. The expression is sometimes abbreviated to c.1900.
- Emeralds - Emeralds have been used in jewellery making for thousands of years, and are prized for their deep green colour, which is caused by the presence of chromium and vanadium in the mineral beryl. Because of their rare colour, emeralds are often more valuable than diamonds of a similar size and quality. In jewellery making, emeralds are typically cut into round or oval shapes to maximize their color and clarity. They are often set in gold or platinum and used as the centrepiece of a piece of jewellery, such as a ring or necklace. They can also be used in combination with other gems, such as diamonds, to create intricate and beautiful designs.
- Claw Set Jewellery - The description "claw set" in jewellery refers to a setting where the gemstone is held in place by metal prongs that resemble claws. These prongs are bent over the edges of the gemstone to secure it in the setting. This type of setting is commonly used for diamonds and other precious stones.
- Openwork in Jewellery - Openwork, also known as pierced work, is a decorative technique used in jewellery making that involves removing or cutting out sections of metal from a piece of jewellery to create a pattern or design. This technique can be used in a wide range of jewellery styles, including necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and rings.
Openwork jewellery can be made using a variety of different techniques, including hand carving, sawing, and laser cutting. The design can be simple or complex, and can feature a range of different shapes and motifs, from delicate floral patterns to bold geometric designs.
One of the advantages of openwork jewellery is that it can add visual interest and depth to a piece without adding a lot of weight or bulk. This can be particularly appealing in larger pieces, such as necklaces and bracelets, where heavy materials can be uncomfortable to wear.
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