19th Century French St. Esprit Paste Pendant
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A paste 'St. Esprit' pendant French 19th century, the openwork plaque decorated with a dove motif at the centre with a surround of ribbon and foliate motifs, surmounted by a crown, applied throughout with vari-cut paste all in closed-back settings, mounted in silver, length 88 mm.
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- Openwork in Jewellery - Openwork, also known as pierced work, is a decorative technique used in jewellery making that involves removing or cutting out sections of metal from a piece of jewellery to create a pattern or design. This technique can be used in a wide range of jewellery styles, including necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and rings.
Openwork jewellery can be made using a variety of different techniques, including hand carving, sawing, and laser cutting. The design can be simple or complex, and can feature a range of different shapes and motifs, from delicate floral patterns to bold geometric designs.
One of the advantages of openwork jewellery is that it can add visual interest and depth to a piece without adding a lot of weight or bulk. This can be particularly appealing in larger pieces, such as necklaces and bracelets, where heavy materials can be uncomfortable to wear. - Foliate - Decorated with leaves or leaf-like forms.
- Closed Back in Jewellery - A closed back setting in jewellery refers to a type of setting where the back of the stone is not visible. The stone is typically set in a metal bezel or cup that covers the back and sides of the stone. This type of setting is commonly used for opaque or dark-colored stones, as it helps to improve the stone's overall appearance by hiding any inclusions or blemishes that may be present on the back of the stone.
Closed back settings are also used to protect the back of the stone from damage or to prevent it from falling out of the setting. This type of setting can be found in a wide range of jewellery styles, including rings, earrings, and pendants, and can be made from a variety of metals, including gold, silver, and platinum. - Paste / Rhinestone / Diamante - Paste (or rhinestone or diamante) is the name given to a coloured glass composition used for imitation gemstones, or to imitation gemstones made of glass.
Although the technique of glassmaking had been known for thousands of years, but it wasn't until a lead glass with similar optical properties to diamonds were invented by a German jeweller working in Paris (either "Stras" or 'Strasser") in the early 18th century that "paste" gemstones became popular.
There was no social stigma attached to wearing imitation stones, and they were worn in situations where highway robbery was a possibility. The 18th century settings were of very high quality, equivilent to real gemstone jewellery.
In the nineteeth century the quality of paste jewellery declined and it has remained the poor cousin to genuine gemstones ever since.
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