Etruscan Revival Locket with Ruby and Pearls
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15ct gold and gem-set locket, circa 1870. Of etruscan revival style, centring a cushion-cut ruby weighing approximately 0.30 carats within a decorative fleur-de-lis motif surround set with seed pearls and rose-cut diamonds, glazed window to reverse, length 65 mm.
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- Circa - A Latin term meaning 'about', often used in the antique trade to give an approximate date for the piece, usually considered to be five years on either side of the circa year. Thus, circa 1900 means the piece was made about 1900, probably between 1895 and 1905. The expression is sometimes abbreviated to c.1900.
- Rose Cut - A flat based cut for a preious stone, leaving the surface covered with triangular facets, usually 24 in total.
It was introduced in the 15th century and popular during the 16th and 17th centuries.
The rose cut was the most popular form of diamond cut until the discovery of the brilliant cut at the end of the 17th century, after which its use declined. - Etruscan - The Etruscans were pre-Roman people who mainly inhabited central and part of north Italy, in the area corresponding to Tuscany. The civilisation was active from around 700BC until their assimilation into the Roman Empire in around the 4th century BC.
With the increasing importance of Rome they were virtually wiped out, for Rome would not tolerate a competitive civilization. Many Etruscan rituals and aspects of their culture were taken over by Rome: Etruscan funeral games became the Roman gladiatorial combats and the science of divination came from the Etruscans.
They were also incredible craftsmen in precious metals. It was said that the famous Etruscan Sibylline books of received wisdom were burnt by Rome and that the emperor Claudius was the last person who could read Etruscan, a language that is still largely undeciphered.
Black and red figure vases attributed to the Etruscans provided the basis for the Etruscan style of furniture, decorative arts and decoration first seen in Louis XVI furniture in the 1760s, and then adapted by Robert Adam in England.
The style was characterised by the use of the red and black colourways of the vases, together with motifs such as lions, birds, sphinxes and griffins.
Josiah Wedgwood was inspired by the civilisation, and in 1769 he opened his new ceramic factory at Stoke-on-Trent, naming it "Etruria Works". Using the modeller John Flaxman, he produced wares based on what was thought at the time, to be Etruscan themes.
At the end of the 18th and in the early 19th century, Etruscan themes were seen in glass, jewellery and furniture, and in the 1820s Coalport China produced a range of wares based on the Etruscan themes.
Around that time it was discovered that the archaeological treasures attributed to the Etruscans were of Greek origin, but the description of them as "Etruscan" continued. - Fleur-De-Lis - The fleur-de-lis is a stylized lily or iris flower with
three petals that has been used as a decorative motif for thousands of years. It
often appears in Christian iconography symbolising the Holy Trinity and as an
emblem that reflects the purity of the Virgin Mary. In decorative art and antiques
decoration, the fleur-de-lis is often used as a symbol of elegance, refinement,
and good taste.
The fleur-de-lis has a rich history and in ancient times, it
was associated with royalty, purity, and the divine, and it was used as a
symbol of the French monarchy for many centuries.
It is a common design element in ceramics, silverware, jewellery,
furniture, and other decorative objects, and it can be found in many different
styles and forms.
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