Vassort's Diamond and Gemstone Ring

Andre Vassort, a diamond, rock crystal, turquoise and onyx ring,…
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Andre Vassort, a diamond, rock crystal, turquoise and onyx ring, France, circa 1955 set with a carved rock crystal between two rows of graduated round brilliant-cut diamonds, further enhanced with carved turquoise and onyx shoulders, with Andre Vassort maker's mark and French assay marks, estimated total diamond weight 2.50 carats, mounted in 18ct gold, ring size K1/2. Little is known the French jeweller Andre Vassort, which is so often the case with the craftsmen and workshops behind the famous Maisons of the place Vendôme. All around Paris, tucked away in discreet buildings, skilled and highly creative master craftsmen worked anonymously for their high profile clients. His maker's mark can be found sparingly on jewels for Cartier, Boucheron and van Cleef & Arpels. He worked from the 1950s, often experimenting with the use of 18 carat yellow gold and coloured gemstones.

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  • Carat - A carat (abbreviated "ct") is a unit of measurement used to describe the weight of a diamond or other gemstone, and separately is a unit of measurement used to describe the weight of precious metals such as gold,.

    For gemstones, one carat is equal to 0.2 grams or 200 milligrams. The weight of a diamond is one of the Four Cs (along with cut, colour, and clarity) that are used to determine a diamond's value.

    It is important to note that a diamond's weight does not necessarily correspond to its size. A diamond's cut, which affects how well it reflects light, can make a diamond of a lower weight appear larger than a diamond of a higher weight. Additionally, the carat is not the only factor to determine the value of a diamond, other factors such as clarity, colour and cut are important too.

    In the gold industry, the purity of gold is measured in carats (abbreviated "ct"), with 24 karats being pure gold and lower carat numbers indicating a lower purity level. So, for example, 18 carat gold is 18/24 or 75% pure gold, and 12 carat gold is 12/24 or 50% pure gold.
  • Circa - A Latin term meaning 'about', often used in the antique trade to give an approximate date for the piece, usually considered to be five years on either side of the circa year. Thus, circa 1900 means the piece was made about 1900, probably between 1895 and 1905. The expression is sometimes abbreviated to c.1900.
  • Assay / Assayed - Assaying is the testing of a metal, most commonly silver and gold to determine its ingredients and quality. In Britain, once an item of silver or gold has been assayed, a mark is stamped on it, certifying its purity. Known as hallmark, it derives its name from the Guild Hall of the Goldsmiths' Company, who recieved its Charter in 1327 giving it the power to assay and mark articles of gold and silver.
  • Onyx - Onyx is a form of agate, used from antiquity and popular again in the 1920s and 30s. European onyx is generally green, but can be many other colours, and can contain bands of black and/or white.

    This multicoloured stone is widely used for table tops, lamp bases and in jewellery. Some types of onyx are also used for cameos of which the upper white layer is cut away to reveal the colour beneath.

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