Blue Enamel and Pearl Mourning Brooch with Hair Plait

A 19th century 15ct gold, blue enamel and glazed panelled…
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A 19th century 15ct gold, blue enamel and glazed panelled mourning brooch, the hair plait glazed and framed by 27 natural half pearls and shaped panels of royal-blue guilloche enamel. The closed back with engraved memorial back, length 4.2 cm. 18.4 gm.

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  • Closed Back in Jewellery - A closed back setting in jewellery refers to a type of setting where the back of the stone is not visible. The stone is typically set in a metal bezel or cup that covers the back and sides of the stone. This type of setting is commonly used for opaque or dark-colored stones, as it helps to improve the stone's overall appearance by hiding any inclusions or blemishes that may be present on the back of the stone.

    Closed back settings are also used to protect the back of the stone from damage or to prevent it from falling out of the setting. This type of setting can be found in a wide range of jewellery styles, including rings, earrings, and pendants, and can be made from a variety of metals, including gold, silver, and platinum.

  • Guilloche - A form of classical decoration consisting of a repeating ornament of interlacing curved bands, sometimes forming circles, and further decorated with rosettes or other flower forms.

    The name is derived from the inventor, French engineer Guillot, who invented a mechanical method of inscribing fine repeating patterns on to metallic surfaces.

    On enamelled items with guilloche decoration, the surface is firstly engraved with the repeating pattern, and then covered with several layers of enamel, each of which is fired.

    Where the item has not been enamelled the form of decoration is usually called "engine turned".

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