A French 18ct gold and diamond articulated rose brooch, featuring 7 folding pierced and textured petals to centre of 19 pistils each set En tremblant with a round brilliant cut diamond, totalling approx. 1.00ct, to textured leaves and stem with double pin brooch back, French mercury head export marks and indistinct diamond shape makers stamp, size 72.5 x 47.5 mm, wt. 32.57g.
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- Brilliant Cut - In their naturally occuring state diamonds have little life or sparkle and for many centuries were simply cut in half and worn in amulets. Invented at the end of the 17th century by a Venetian diamond cutter, a "brilliant cut" diamond has 58 facets arranged in a regular geometric relationship, with 33 above the crown and 25 below on the pavilion.
The introduction of the brilliant cut increased the popularity of diamonds in jewellery as it was the first cut to reveal the fire of the diamond, with the light being internally reflected from one facet to another, and was superior to the previously used table cut and rose cut.Variants to the brilliant cut have emerged since the end of the 17th century, but the popularity of the original brilliant cut has continued to the present time, where it is still the most commonly found cut.
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- En Tremblant - En tremblant is a French term meaning "to tremble". It was first used to describe 18th and 19th century jewellery where parts of diamond set pieces were attached to a trembler to create movement in the jewel when worn. It's most common use was in brooches, especially for jewellery incorporating floral motifs or butterfly or dragonfly wings. There was a revival of the technique in the 1950s and 60s by Bulgari, and their jewellery became very fashionable with Hollywood stars.
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