Art Nouveau pearl and diamond pendant necklace, the openwork floral plaque accented by seed pearls and an old brilliant cut diamond, to a fetter-link chain, French assay marks, length 25 cm.
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- Art Nouveau Period - The Art Nouveau period was a cultural movement that emerged in the late 19th century, and was characterized by its emphasis on natural forms, flowing lines, and a decorative, ornamental style. Art Nouveau was a reaction against the ornate and heavily stylized designs of the previous era, and sought to create a new, more organic aesthetic.
Art Nouveau was characterized by its use of sinuous, curving lines, as well as a focus on natural elements such as flowers, vines, and other organic shapes. Art Nouveau designers sought to create a total work of art, in which every element of a building or object was designed to be harmonious with the overall design.
Some of the most iconic examples of Art Nouveau design include the Paris Metro entrances designed by Hector Guimard, the works of the artist Alphonse Mucha, and the architecture of Victor Horta in Brussels.
The Art Nouveau period was at its peak between 1890 and 1910, but began to decline in popularity by the start of World War I. However, Art Nouveau remains an important influence on design and art to this day, and continues to be celebrated for its emphasis on natural forms and decorative style.
- Brilliant Cut - In their naturally occuring state diamonds have little life or sparkle and for many centuries were simply cut in half and worn in amulets. Invented at the end of the 17th century by a Venetian diamond cutter, a "brilliant cut" diamond has 58 facets arranged in a regular geometric relationship, with 33 above the crown and 25 below on the pavilion.
The introduction of the brilliant cut increased the popularity of diamonds in jewellery as it was the first cut to reveal the fire of the diamond, with the light being internally reflected from one facet to another, and was superior to the previously used table cut and rose cut.Variants to the brilliant cut have emerged since the end of the 17th century, but the popularity of the original brilliant cut has continued to the present time, where it is still the most commonly found cut.
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- Openwork in Jewellery - Openwork, also known as pierced work, is a decorative technique used in jewellery making that involves removing or cutting out sections of metal from a piece of jewellery to create a pattern or design. This technique can be used in a wide range of jewellery styles, including necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and rings.
Openwork jewellery can be made using a variety of different techniques, including hand carving, sawing, and laser cutting. The design can be simple or complex, and can feature a range of different shapes and motifs, from delicate floral patterns to bold geometric designs.
One of the advantages of openwork jewellery is that it can add visual interest and depth to a piece without adding a lot of weight or bulk. This can be particularly appealing in larger pieces, such as necklaces and bracelets, where heavy materials can be uncomfortable to wear.
- Assay / Assayed - Assaying is the testing of a metal, most commonly silver and gold to determine its ingredients and quality. In Britain, once an item of silver or gold has been assayed, a mark is stamped on it, certifying its purity. Known as hallmark, it derives its name from the Guild Hall of the Goldsmiths' Company, who recieved its Charter in 1327 giving it the power to assay and mark articles of gold and silver.
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