Flowerhead Gem Earclips by Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels, pair of 'Pelous Hawaii' diamond and gem-set…
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Van Cleef & Arpels, pair of 'Pelous Hawaii' diamond and gem-set earclips, circa 1950, the bombe earrings composed of polished spheres and clusters of brilliant-cut diamonds, circular-cut rubies and sapphires forming flowerhead motifs, estimated total diamond weight 10 carat, signed van Cleef & Arpels, numbered 73479, French assay marks, length 2 cm.

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  • Assay / Assayed - Assaying is the testing of a metal, most commonly silver and gold to determine its ingredients and quality. In Britain, once an item of silver or gold has been assayed, a mark is stamped on it, certifying its purity. Known as hallmark, it derives its name from the Guild Hall of the Goldsmiths' Company, who recieved its Charter in 1327 giving it the power to assay and mark articles of gold and silver.
  • Bombe Design in Jewellery - In the early 18th century, during the reign of Louis XIV, French court jewellers developed a new style of jewellery called "bombĂ©" because of its bulging, curved shape.

    The bombe design can be found in various styles of jewellery, from Georgian, Victorian, Art nouveau, to Art Deco and Retro eras, with the materials and techniques reflecting the era the jewellery was made.

    The design is used for rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings, where a curved or rounded shape is emphasized, giving an organic look to the piece, with the piece often made of gold and set with precious stones, such as diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. The bombe design was also paired with other design elements such as engraving, enamelling, or gemstones
  • Circa - A Latin term meaning 'about', often used in the antique trade to give an approximate date for the piece, usually considered to be five years on either side of the circa year. Thus, circa 1900 means the piece was made about 1900, probably between 1895 and 1905. The expression is sometimes abbreviated to c.1900.
  • Carat - A carat (abbreviated "ct") is a unit of measurement used to describe the weight of a diamond or other gemstone, and separately is a unit of measurement used to describe the weight of precious metals such as gold,.

    For gemstones, one carat is equal to 0.2 grams or 200 milligrams. The weight of a diamond is one of the Four Cs (along with cut, colour, and clarity) that are used to determine a diamond's value.

    It is important to note that a diamond's weight does not necessarily correspond to its size. A diamond's cut, which affects how well it reflects light, can make a diamond of a lower weight appear larger than a diamond of a higher weight. Additionally, the carat is not the only factor to determine the value of a diamond, other factors such as clarity, colour and cut are important too.

    In the gold industry, the purity of gold is measured in carats (abbreviated "ct"), with 24 karats being pure gold and lower carat numbers indicating a lower purity level. So, for example, 18 carat gold is 18/24 or 75% pure gold, and 12 carat gold is 12/24 or 50% pure gold.

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