Victorian turquoise and diamond etruscan revival suite, property from a private Sydney collection, comprising: a target brooch centring a celestial motif claw-set with a rose-cut diamond framed by a cluster of circular turquoise beads further framed by four collet set oval-shaped turquoise between applied rope twist and granulation accents terminating on a fringe of cones between cylindrical links, mounted in 15ct gold, diameter 35 mm, length 66 mm, and a pair of pendant earrings en suite, width 19 mm, length 58 mm, wire fittings (2)., accompanied by a fitted box.
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- Rose Cut - A flat based cut for a preious stone, leaving the surface covered with triangular facets, usually 24 in total.
It was introduced in the 15th century and popular during the 16th and 17th centuries.
The rose cut was the most popular form of diamond cut until the discovery of the brilliant cut at the end of the 17th century, after which its use declined.
- Granulation - Granulation is a jewellery-making technique that involves the application of small grains or balls of metal (typically gold or silver) onto a surface to create intricate and decorative designs. In the process of granulation, the metal granules are carefully melted and then dropped or placed onto the surface using a fine-tipped tool. Once they have been positioned, they are then soldered in place using a torch or other heat source. The result is a piece of jewellery that features intricate patterns and designs created entirely out of small, shining metal granules.
The technique dates back thousands of years and has been used by artisans across various cultures to create beautiful and unique pieces of jewellery. Granulation is a time-consuming and skilled process that requires patience, precision, and a steady hand. It is considered a lost art in some parts of the world and is highly prized by jewellery collectors and artisans.
- Claw Set Jewellery - The description "claw set" in jewellery refers to a setting where the gemstone is held in place by metal prongs that resemble claws. These prongs are bent over the edges of the gemstone to secure it in the setting. This type of setting is commonly used for diamonds and other precious stones.
- Collet Setting - A collet setting in jewellery is a type of setting that is used to hold a gemstone or other decorative element securely in place. The collet is a ring of metal that surrounds the stone and holds it in place. The collet is typically made of the same metal as the rest of the piece and is often used in vintage or antique jewellery.
In a collet setting, the gemstone is placed into a small metal ring, also known as a collet. The metal ring is then bent or folded over the edges of the gemstone to hold it securely in place. The collet is then attached to the rest of the piece of jewellery, such as a ring or pendant.
One of the benefits of a collet setting is that it allows the maximum amount of light to enter the stone, which can enhance its brilliance and sparkle. It also allows the stone to be seen from the sides, which makes it a popular choice for showcasing particularly beautiful or unique stones.
The collet setting is a classic and elegant setting and it is often found in antique jewellery, particularly from the Victorian and Edwardian periods.
- Etruscan - The Etruscans were pre-Roman people who mainly inhabited central and part of north Italy, in the area corresponding to Tuscany. The civilisation was active from around 700BC until their assimilation into the Roman Empire in around the 4th century BC.
With the increasing importance of Rome they were virtually wiped out, for Rome would not tolerate a competitive civilization. Many Etruscan rituals and aspects of their culture were taken over by Rome: Etruscan funeral games became the Roman gladiatorial combats and the science of divination came from the Etruscans.
They were also incredible craftsmen in precious metals. It was said that the famous Etruscan Sibylline books of received wisdom were burnt by Rome and that the emperor Claudius was the last person who could read Etruscan, a language that is still largely undeciphered.
Black and red figure vases attributed to the Etruscans provided the basis for the Etruscan style of furniture, decorative arts and decoration first seen in Louis XVI furniture in the 1760s, and then adapted by Robert Adam in England.
The style was characterised by the use of the red and black colourways of the vases, together with motifs such as lions, birds, sphinxes and griffins.
Josiah Wedgwood was inspired by the civilisation, and in 1769 he opened his new ceramic factory at Stoke-on-Trent, naming it "Etruria Works". Using the modeller John Flaxman, he produced wares based on what was thought at the time, to be Etruscan themes.
At the end of the 18th and in the early 19th century, Etruscan themes were seen in glass, jewellery and furniture, and in the 1820s Coalport China produced a range of wares based on the Etruscan themes.
Around that time it was discovered that the archaeological treasures attributed to the Etruscans were of Greek origin, but the description of them as "Etruscan" continued.
- Victorian Period - The Victorian period of furniture and decorative arts design covers the reign of Queen Victoria from 1837 to 1901. There was not one dominant style of furniture in the Victorian period. Designers used and modified many historical styles such as Gothic, Tudor, Elizabethan, English Rococo, Neoclassical and others, although use of some styles, such as English Rococo and Gothic tended to dominate the furniture manufacture of the period.
The Victorian period was preceded by the Regency and William IV periods, and followed by the Edwardian period, named for Edward VII (1841 ? 1910) who was King of the United Kingdom and the British Dominions and Emperor of India for the brief period from 1901 until his death in 1910.
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