Amethyst and Diamond Pendant Necklace by Johann Michael Wilm

Johann Michael Wilm, amethyst and diamond pendant necklace, the…
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Johann Michael Wilm, amethyst and diamond pendant necklace, the brushed and polished gold plaque with rope twist, coil, cup and bar applique, collet-set with old European-cut diamonds and centred by a circular-cut amethyst with estimated weight 400 carats, suspended from a fine belcher link 18ct gold necklace, applied maker's mark, 18ct gold, weight 37.3gm. Length pendant 5.5 cm, necklace 52 cm. Johann Michael Wilm 1885 - 1963 . Johann Michael Wilm was apprenticed to his father's workshop. He studied drawing at the Academy of fine Arts in Hanau. He established his Munich based business in 1919, researching and refining the etruscan skill of granulation, in the mid 1920s he introduced cloisonne enamel into his work based on Byzantine themes and masque motifs in the mid 1930s. He is most noted for his use of granulation, filigree and ornate settings using diamonds, pearls and precious stones. 'Gold and precious stones are the imperishable and everlasting material of this world. And if in a thousand years one will start to excavate our epoque, then hopefully one won't just find pieces of old sewing machines and electric cookers, but also a few pieces of jewellery. Because these jewels should mirror our world; that even the birth pangs of industrialization could not extrude or even extinguish the desire for beauty and the love for jewels and aesthetic forms.' J M Wilm.

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  • Byzantine Style in Jewellery - The Byzantine period refers to the time in history when the Byzantine Empire was in existence, which lasted from the 4th century AD to the 15th century AD. The Byzantine Empire was the continuation of the Roman Empire in the eastern Mediterranean, centered around the city of Constantinople (now Istanbul, Turkey). The Byzantine period is characterized by the rise of Christianity and the Eastern Orthodox Church as the dominant religion, as well as the fusion of Greek, Roman, and Eastern cultures.

    Byzantine style jewellery is known for its intricate designs, rich colours and the use of precious stones such as pearls, diamonds and emeralds. These jewellery often featuring religious imagery such as crosses and religious figures like Mary and Jesus. Byzantine jewellery was also known for its use of granulation and filigree techniques, which involved creating intricate patterns and designs using small beads or wire. This style was also characterized by the use of enamels, which were applied to metal surfaces to create colourful and durable designs. These jewellery items are considered as the most beautiful and most valuable pieces of jewellery from the ancient world.
  • Filigree Work - Jewels - Filigree is delicate and intricate ornamental metal-work made from thin threads of gold or silver, soldered and twisted together to give the effect of lace. The filigree work may be freestanding, or attached to the surface of an object.
  • Granulation - Granulation is a jewellery-making technique that involves the application of small grains or balls of metal (typically gold or silver) onto a surface to create intricate and decorative designs. In the process of granulation, the metal granules are carefully melted and then dropped or placed onto the surface using a fine-tipped tool. Once they have been positioned, they are then soldered in place using a torch or other heat source. The result is a piece of jewellery that features intricate patterns and designs created entirely out of small, shining metal granules.

    The technique dates back thousands of years and has been used by artisans across various cultures to create beautiful and unique pieces of jewellery. Granulation is a time-consuming and skilled process that requires patience, precision, and a steady hand. It is considered a lost art in some parts of the world and is highly prized by jewellery collectors and artisans.
  • Etruscan - The Etruscans were pre-Roman people who mainly inhabited central and part of north Italy, in the area corresponding to Tuscany. The civilisation was active from around 700BC until their assimilation into the Roman Empire in around the 4th century BC.

    With the increasing importance of Rome they were virtually wiped out, for Rome would not tolerate a competitive civilization. Many Etruscan rituals and aspects of their culture were taken over by Rome: Etruscan funeral games became the Roman gladiatorial combats and the science of divination came from the Etruscans.

    They were also incredible craftsmen in precious metals. It was said that the famous Etruscan Sibylline books of received wisdom were burnt by Rome and that the emperor Claudius was the last person who could read Etruscan, a language that is still largely undeciphered.

    Black and red figure vases attributed to the Etruscans provided the basis for the Etruscan style of furniture, decorative arts and decoration first seen in Louis XVI furniture in the 1760s, and then adapted by Robert Adam in England.

    The style was characterised by the use of the red and black colourways of the vases, together with motifs such as lions, birds, sphinxes and griffins.

    Josiah Wedgwood was inspired by the civilisation, and in 1769 he opened his new ceramic factory at Stoke-on-Trent, naming it "Etruria Works". Using the modeller John Flaxman, he produced wares based on what was thought at the time, to be Etruscan themes.

    At the end of the 18th and in the early 19th century, Etruscan themes were seen in glass, jewellery and furniture, and in the 1820s Coalport China produced a range of wares based on the Etruscan themes.

    Around that time it was discovered that the archaeological treasures attributed to the Etruscans were of Greek origin, but the description of them as "Etruscan" continued.

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