A coloured diamond, diamond and pearl spider brooch, circa 1890,…
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A coloured diamond, diamond and pearl spider brooch, circa 1890, the cushion-cut yellow diamond body mounted within a rose-cut diamond cluster surround, to a bouton-shaped pearl, with cabochon emerald eyes and textured gold pincers, the legs set throughout with rose-cut diamonds accented by two cabochon rubies, detachable fittings, pearl untested, yellow diamond weighs approximately 1.50 carats, mounted in silver and gold, French assay mark, width 6.5 cm

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  • Assay / Assayed - Assaying is the testing of a metal, most commonly silver and gold to determine its ingredients and quality. In Britain, once an item of silver or gold has been assayed, a mark is stamped on it, certifying its purity. Known as hallmark, it derives its name from the Guild Hall of the Goldsmiths' Company, who recieved its Charter in 1327 giving it the power to assay and mark articles of gold and silver.
  • Emeralds - Emeralds have been used in jewellery making for thousands of years, and are prized for their deep green colour, which is caused by the presence of chromium and vanadium in the mineral beryl. Because of their rare colour, emeralds are often more valuable than diamonds of a similar size and quality. In jewellery making, emeralds are typically cut into round or oval shapes to maximize their color and clarity. They are often set in gold or platinum and used as the centrepiece of a piece of jewellery, such as a ring or necklace. They can also be used in combination with other gems, such as diamonds, to create intricate and beautiful designs.
  • Cabochon Cut in Jewellery - A cabochon cut is a type of gemstone cutting where the stone is cut and polished in a convex shape with a flat bottom and a domed top, with no facets. This type of cut is typically used for opaque or translucent stones that have natural patterns or inclusions that are best displayed in this type of cut. Examples of stones that are often cut as cabochons include turquoise, opal, and moonstone.
  • Circa - A Latin term meaning 'about', often used in the antique trade to give an approximate date for the piece, usually considered to be five years on either side of the circa year. Thus, circa 1900 means the piece was made about 1900, probably between 1895 and 1905. The expression is sometimes abbreviated to c.1900.
  • Rose Cut - A flat based cut for a preious stone, leaving the surface covered with triangular facets, usually 24 in total.

    It was introduced in the 15th century and popular during the 16th and 17th centuries.

    The rose cut was the most popular form of diamond cut until the discovery of the brilliant cut at the end of the 17th century, after which its use declined.

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